Looking for Light: Little River Inn

I first read the phrase “looking for light” on the blog of my photography friend, Amanda Creamer. Amanda creates some stunning, dreamy images with her film and digital cameras. I loved “looking for light” so much, I wrote and asked her if I could borrow it and use it here from time to time. Photography is, at its very basic level, the art, application, and practice of creating images by recording light. As a photographer, I find myself looking at the world around me in terms of light and shadows.

Right now, I am focusing my efforts and honing my skills in black and white photography, but not too long ago, my wife and I spent a lovely weekend up the California coast near Mendocino. I brought my Nikkormat FT3 and Pentax Spotmatic with me, both loaded with black and white film. We stayed at the Little River Inn just south of Mendicino and on our first night, we had dinner in the hotel’s restaurant. Our host seated us at a table with a view of the Pacific. It was the magic hour and as I looked out the window, I was awed by the palette of colors. After many years of living at the coast, my experience is that my iPhone rarely gets it right, but this night it sure did. The sky, the ocean and the artificial light from the porch of the Inn all worked together, perfectly. Even the reflection of the restaurant’s chandelier in the upper left is a nice touch I think. I make it a practice not to bring my phone with me for relaxing dinners out, but on this night, I am glad I broke my rule.

Fear of Flash (Or, how a 50-year old Vivitar 283 helped me conquer it)

I’ve always had a fear of electronic flash photography and I admit, it was a fear of the unknown. My experience with flash photography was limited to flashcubes on Kodak Instamatic cameras, flashbars on Polaroid instant cameras and the SB-24 Nikon Speedlight I bought for my Nikon N90s back in the 1990s. I never got good pictures from any of those set-ups, mostly because I really didn’t know what I was doing. Many years ago, a friend hired me to shoot his wedding. To this day, I still cannot figure why he did or moreso, why I agreed to do it considering I didn’t have a clue. It was an outdoor daytime wedding and the available light stuff was pretty acceptable. The few flash shots with my N90s and Speedlight were horrible. The marriage didn’t last but my friend, who is still my friend, said it had nothing to do with my photographs. Thank goodness for that.

The rest of my portfolio of flash photographs consisted of over-exposed and washed out shots of my kid’s birthday parties or similar results from other family gatherings. I don’t think I had ever taken a flash photograph that I have been happy with. My history, coupled with what I perceived as the complicated process of achieving good results with flash, has contributed to my fear.

A recent acquisition of a Fujifilm X-T1 digital camera prompted me to starting wondering again about trying some flash photography. With the X-T1, I could experiment, learn and see my results immediately rather than incur the expense of film and processing while I fumbled my way around. I was also very curious about off-camera flash, both for still subjects and maybe even some portraiture. The most important part of this fear-conquering journey was not spending tons of money doing it. So I began my research and ended up going back in time 50 years.

The Vivitar 283 electronic flash was introduced in 1970 and quickly became the most popular professional and advanced amateur flash of its day. Vivitar sold more than 3 million units by 1973 and the 283 remained in production, on and off, for nearly 30 years. The power and dependability of the 283 along with a wide range of accessories, made it the choice of wedding and studio photographers. Because of the vast numbers of 283s produced and their outstanding reliability, you can pick one one up today for around $10, which is what I did. Mine came in its original box with instructions and shows little signs of use. The day mine came, I quickly installed four AA batteries, turned it on and pushed the test button. It worked!

One of the things you will read if you begin to research older flashes is the danger of high trigger voltages. Today’s electronic flashes use very low voltage at the hot shoe to trigger the flash; usually under 10v. Some of these older flashes, some 283s included, create trigger voltage as high as 250v which could damage the electronics in newer film and digital cameras. My Fujiflim X-T1 allows for a trigger voltage as high as 300v according to the manual. Since I was going to use my 283 off camera or with one of my old mechanical film cameras, I was really not concerned about the higher trigger voltage, but out of curiosity, decided to see what my 283 tested at.

Checking the voltage per some instructions I found online, the trigger voltage on my 283 was just under 8v which is fine for any film or digital camera. Even if you find an older flash with high trigger voltage, you can use the flash with a remote trigger, which is what I intended to do. For my set up, I found this AODELAN wireless flash trigger and receiver on Amazon for $42.

You simply mount the transmitter on your camera’s hot shoe and the flash mounts to the receiver. I mounted my receiver and flash to an old Bogen tri-pod. This inexpensive wireless set up triggers my 283 flash like a dream with the Fujifilm X-T1. I swapped out the digital camera for my Nikkormat EL and the set up worked just as well with the old film camera.

You can use the 283 in auto or manual mode. In auto mode, you twist the little calculator dial on the side of the flash to whatever film speed you are using, seen on the lower part of the dial.

Vivitar 283 flash calculator. This dial evens lights up with a cool green backlight.

You adjust the distance from flash to subject on the Auto Thyristor sensor on the front of the flash. If your subject is up to 15 feet away for example, select the blue color and then read your f/stop off the calculator. In this example f/8. If your camera is set at whatever shutter speed it synchs electronic flash with, you should get a good exposure.

The Auto Thyristor sensor

Side of the Auto Thuristor sensor set to BLUE

Like I mentioned above, Vivitar made all sorts of crazy accessories for the 283. One is the VP-1 Vari-Power module which replaces the Auto Thyristor sensor on the front of the flash. With the VP-1, you can manually dial in just the right amount of flash you want for your subject from full down to just a splash of fill. I found my VP-1 on eBay for $8.

Vivitar VP-! Vari-Power module

A family member wanted some portraits taken for a work project. I knew I could get some decent available light shots outdoors with my X-T1, but I thought this might also be a good time to experiment with off-camera fill flash using the 283, VP-1 and my camera set on manual mode. I set the camera to 200 ISO and the shutter speed to the camera’s 180th of a second synch speed. It was a bight sunny day. I put the tripod-mounted flash off to one side of my subject. Full power was way too much but as I dialed the output power back to 1/16th of full, the results were outstanding. I shot a series of portraits which looked amazing. My subject has not given me permission to share those headshots at this point, but I intend to shoot some more I can share here with permission as well as enlisting Orvie, my Golden Retriever, who loves to pose for portraits.

The Vivitar 283 also gave me an opportunity to try out my Minolta IV-F Autometer, taking flash readings. I connected the Minolta meter to the flash using a PC synch chord, held the meter near my subject pointing back towards the camera. Pressing the button to take the reading fires the flash, giving me the proper exposure setting. I did feel kind of like a pro photographer with the Minolta Autometer dangling from my neck.

I am encouraged by the results from my first experiment with the Vivitar 283. For around $60 all in, I have a really nice flash set up which can help me overcome my negativity and fear of flash photography. I am sure there are newer flashes that do all of this and more and probably do it easier than this set up. But in the doing, I am learning. And that’s a very good thing. I will share some results here soon and in the meantime, hope to hear from any of my readers who know more about this subject than I do.

The Vivitar 283 is a very powerful, versatile, well-built, affordable flash unit that is helping to teach this old dog some new tricks.

One Photograph: Dial O for Operator

I heard a story on NPR driving to work the other day that AT&T has asked state regulators at the California Public Utilities Commission to phase out its obligation to provide landline telephone service. They estimate less than 7% of California households in its service area use traditional copper-based landline phones. 7% doesn’t sound like much but in a state as big as ours, that’s a lot of people. AT&T’s proposal has generated over 2,600 public comments online ahead of hearing before a judge on the matter.

I personally have not had landline service since 2010 but there have been instances since then when, during big storms and wildfires, the electricity and internet were out as well as some cell towers. During one of the big fires, lots of folks I know found it difficult to connect a call. It sure would’ve been nice to pick up the receiver and hear a dial tone.

My parents still have an old black rotary dial wall phone in their basement. It was installed by New York Telephone in 1966 and for 58 years it has always worked no matter what.

I made this photograph of my old Western Electric rotary dial desk phone seven years after I gave up my landline. I used my Nikon F2AS, 55mm f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor and Kodak TMax 400 film.

Can you even get an Operator by dialing “O” anymore?

One Photograph: Channeling Vivian Maier

Ever since Vivian Maier’s amazing body of work was discovered in 2007, I’ve been a fan. I especially enjoy her whimsical selfies.

I began doing selfies as a way of identifying which camera I was using. I save the last few frames of each roll and shoot a mirror selfie. On occasion while out on a photo walk, I have come across a window where I can snap a good reflection of myself or a mirror in a shop. This is one of my favorites. I happened down an alley that had facing mirrors and took a selfie with my Pentax Spotmatic SP with a 55mm f/1.8 Takumar on expired Agfa APX 100 film.

Mirror Selfie, Yountville, CA, 2019

30 Film Cameras You Should Try Before You Die

Ok, the headline is a bit dramatic, I admit.

I am wrapping up 2023 with a list of the top 30 cameras that I have experienced since I started this blog. What I liked best and least about each of them, their quirks and anything I learned that might be helpful. Try one. Try six. Try all 30 if you’re a nut like me.

CANON P: This is a well made rangefinder from the 1960s, before Canon started making SLRs. It’s one of the least expensive ways to try out LTM (Leica Thread Mount) or M39 lenses. Canon also made lenses for their rangefinders. I had a 50mm f/1.4 that made gorgeous pictures. The Canon P is a delight to shoot. The only pitfall is that the shutter curtains are made of thin metal and are prone to wrinkling.

The Canon P with 50mm f/1.4 Canon LTM lens

CANON NEW F-1: Canon’s professional grade SLR circa 1981. It competed with Nikon’s F3. This was the last version of the F-1 series after the original F-1 and F-1n. Very robust SLR with aperture-priority metering. Uses Canon’s FD mount lenses which are exceptional and reasonably priced. The finish on this camera is unique and very attractive.

Canon New F-1 with 50/1.4 Canon FD lens

CANON A-1: Another FD mount SLR, the Canon A-1 is the ultimate point and shoot. In program mode, just focus and shoot. The A-1’s metering system will take anything you can throw at it. It also has a variety of other shooting modes too. Only drawback to the A-1 is the annoying Canon shutter squeal which can be remedied with a professional CLA. Do it yourselfers have spoiled lots of A-1s trying to squirt oil into the camera’s body. Use a pro.

The Canon A-1 with breech-lock mount 50mm f/1.4 Canon FD lens

CONTAX RX: The Contax RX is a very interesting camera, released just as the world was beginning to embrace autofocus. While it is not an autofocus camera, it has “autofocus assist”—a little display in the viewfinder that tells you when you’ve nailed your focus. It really works! The RX has every shooting mode you could want, has a very cool shutter sound and uses the amazing Carl Zeiss C/Y mount lenses. I took some beautiful pictures with mine. The RX has loads of electronics inside. I am not sure how well those electronics will age, but when this camera is working, it’s a joy to shoot!

Contax RX with 50mm f/1.7 Zeiss Planar

HASSELBLAD 500C/M: Two medium format cameras made my list, both SLRs. The first is the Hasselblad 500C/M. Shooting a Hasselblad is truly an immersive experience. From loading film to composing an image, tripping that amazing shutter and winding on the next frame…nothing is fast about a Hasselblad. But is it fun! And did I mention those Carl Zeiss lenses!

The Hassey with 80mm Zeiss Planar

LEICA M2: Of all the Leica rangefinders I tried, the M2 was my favorite. For pure minimalistic photographic joy, there’s nothing like an M2 with a 50mm or 35mm Summicron lens and some Tri-X film. The M6TTL would be a close second to the M2, but only because of a built-in light meter. My recommendation on buying Leica rangefinders is to only buy from reputable dealers and expect at some point to invest in a CLA.

Leica M2 with 50mm Rigid Summicron

LEICA R SERIES: Leica made SLRs too and my favorites are the R4, R5, R6 and R7. These cameras were the result of a partnership with Minolta and like other Minoltas that I will talk about in just a bit, some of the Leica R bodies suffer from various electronic gremlins. None of mine ever did. These Leica SLRs are one of the most affordable ways to experience the amazing quality of Leica lenses although prices have increased recently as cinematographers have discovered Leica glass. The R4, R5 and R7 have auto exposure modes. The R6 is completely manual. Leica SLRs have big, bright, beautiful viewfinders.

Leica R4s MOD-P with 60mm f/2.8 Macro-Elmarit

LEICAFLEX SL2: The 1973 vintage SL2 was the last of the Leicaflex cameras, predecessor to the R-Series. It might be the smoothest, sweetest sounding, most confidence-inspiring camera I have ever shot…period! There’s a story around the internet that Leica over built this camera and lost money on every copy sold. Their rationale was that people would buy lenses and that’s how they’d make money. I am not sure if this is true or just an urban legend, but I will tell you that the SL2 is over built. Every single part. The fit and finish on the SL2 is extraordinary. Every knob, lever and dial moves with perfection and authority. It’s a camera you want to shoot with and fiddle with when you’re not. You can find these cameras for sale in the $300-$500 range, but buyer beware. My SL2 required an extensive CLA and conversion to modern batteries. Don Goldberg at DAG did the work and when I got the camera back, it was a work of art. Expensive, but worth it.

Leicaflex SL2 with 35-70 Vario-Elmar zoom

MAMIYA 645PRO: Only two medium format cameras made the list and this is one of them. The 645Pro is a system camera, very modular. This camera handles like a 35mm SLR, has oodles of lenses and accessories and is easy to use. With finder and power grip, it's a big and heavy beast. Strip it down to the basic waist level finder and crank-style film advance and it's very portable.

Mamiya 645Pro with power grip and AE finder

PENTAX MX: This is a very small, simple, manual everything SLR that takes Pentax K-mount lenses. The MX was the professional model in a line-up that included the ME and the ME Super consumer models. The size and weight of this camera makes it an ideal companion for hiking or photo walks.

Pentax MX with 50mm SMC Pentax-Z f/1.4 lens

PENTAX ME: The Pentax ME is my 35mm point and shoot. Aperture-priority auto-exposure is the only mode available on the ME. Some might see that as a limitation, I see it as liberation. Mount your favorite Pentax K-mount lens on the front, drop in some film, go shoot!

Pentax ME with 85mm f/1.8 SMC Pentax-M lens

PENTAX LX: I’ve had four of these. Two worked flawlessly, two gave me all sorts of fits. Needless to say, I still think everyone should try this amazing camera from Pentax that was in production from 1980 to 2001. The LX was a professional grade system camera. It was weather-sealed, had very accurate off-the-film-plane metering and feels just great in the hand. Do some research on the LX and you will read about its “sticky mirror syndrome” as well as issues with its aging electronics. Pentax guru Erick Hendrickson used to service the LX. He doesn't anymore. I am not sure anyone does. Pity as the LX is about as good as it gets.

The author with his LX on Portra 400 film

PENTAX K2: The K2 was the top of the line in a post Spotmatic series of cameras that included the K1000, KM and KX. The K2 offered aperture-priority auto exposure and was considered a pro-level body. It was only in production for a few years prior to the introduction of the LX. The only thing bad I have to say about this camera is that the ASA setting is done via a ring around the lens mount. Over time, these get very difficult to turn. A tech can remedy this during CLA.

The Pentax K2

PENTAX SPOTMATIC: The Pentax Spotmatic was the first 35mm SLR with through-the-lens (TTL) metering. I also think it is one of the nicest looking cameras ever made. In 1960s advertisements, Pentax invited photographers to “Just Hold a Pentax.” Indeed, a Spotmatic feels just great in your hand. I have to admit that I was put off by the things I read about the Spotmatic for quite a while. First, the battery needed to power the camera’s meter was no longer available and second, the camera required stop down metering. When I finally decided to try one, the body I bought off of eBay arrived with tons of corrosion. Eventually, I came across a nice Spotmatic. I discovered the battery issue is a non-issue. And after a few shots using stop down metering, it became second nature. Later Spotmatic F models eliminated the need for stop down metering with SMC Takumar lenses. While cameras in my collection have come and gone, there’s always been a Spotmatic around.

Pentax Spotmatic with 55mm f/1.8 SMC Takumar

NIKON F: Nikon turned the photographic world upside down in 1959 when they introduced the F body and the Nikon F mount lens, which is still used on Nikon DSLRs. The F is a legendary camera and I only came to appreciate it this year when I acquired several with the non-metered prisms. Like the Leica M2, I find this version of the Nikon F pure, minimalistic photographic joy.

NIKON F2AS: The F2 was the follow up to the Nikon F. Introduced in 1971, it would stay in production until 1980. All of that time, the camera body stayed the same. Nikon introduced several new prism heads with auto-indexing and more sensitive meters. The last version was the Nikon F2AS. Some people call the F2 Nikon’s best mechanical SLR. Some say it is perhaps the best mechanical SLR period.

Nikon F2AS with 55mm f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor

NIKON F3: The F3 was Nikon’s third professional camera and the first with an electronic shutter that required a battery. Hard to imagine today because everything runs on batteries, but professional photographers at that time were very hesitant to buy into a camera body that required batteries. It turned out that the F3 was just as dependable as the F and F2 and would stay in production the longest of any of Nikon’s professional cameras. The F3 is a great camera and has the nicest film advance, I think, of any 35mm SLR.

Nikon F3HP

NIKON F4: The 1988 F4 introduced Nikon photographers to autofocus. It’s also one of Nikon’s most flexible camera bodies, accepting every Nikon lens made since 1959 with certain limitations. The F4 is a beast. It’s big and heavy but feels really amazing in hand. There are several different battery grips available for the F4. The photo below shows the F4 with the MB-20 grip, allowing for the smallest and lightest F4 configuration.

NIKON FM, FE, FE2, FM2: All of these are essentially the same camera. The FM is the first in this series of cameras first released in 1977. The FM and later FM2 were manual everything cameras. The FE and FE2 offer manual plus aperture-priority auto exposure. In 2001, Nikon released the FM3a which incorporated all of the best features of all of its predecessors.

The Nikon FM

MINOLTA XD: Of all of the Minolta cameras I have tried, I liked the XD best. The XD was called the XD-11 in the US, the XD-7 in Europe and just XD in Japan. The XD is a historically significant camera because it was the first SLR to offer both aperture-priority and shutter-priority auto-exposure modes. More important still, the XD had a built-in, simple but effective microprocessor. In shutter-priority mode, if the photographer selects a speed that the camera determines is outside proper exposure parameters, it will automatically select another one that will deliver a good exposure. This was the first ever "program" mode on a camera. The XD also offers a fully manual exposure mode. The XD was made in a joint venture with Leica and it just oozes quality. There was also a XD-s which offered built-in diopter correction. Some Minolta photographers report electronics issues with the XD line, the same gremlins that infect the Leica R cameras perhaps?

Minolta XD. Leica hiding inside.

Olympus OM-1 and OM-2: 35mm SLRs were big and heavy until Olympus changed the game in 1972 with the introduction of the OM-1. After that, Nikon and Pentax scrambled to downsize their SLRs to compete. In previous posts I have called these Olympus cameras “jewel-like” and they really are wonderful to shoot. The Zuiko lenses are pretty amazing too. The OM-1 uses mercury batteries so you will have to use a Wein cell or have it converted to take modern 1.5v batteries.

Olympus OM-1n with OM Labor 50mm f/1.4 Zuiko

There are a few cameras which are too new to me to make this list. I am currently shooting three different Nikkormat cameras; the FTN, FT2 and FT3. I am very impressed with all three. My Nikkormats will definitely make next year’s list.

Happy New Year from the Fogdog Blog!

Winter Storms on The Sonoma Coast

Gale Warning…Wind Advisory…High Surf Warning…Coastal Flood Advisory. All of these weather alerts are in the forecast this week here in Northern California as a series of winter storms roll through. For the ten years I lived in Bodega Bay, I got used to hunkering down and letting nature do her thing. After the storms had cleared, I loved grabbing a camera and heading down to the beach to see what had washed up. What shapes had been carved in the sand.

This series was shot on Eastman 5222 film with my Pentax Spotmatic and the 55mm f/1.8 Super Tak.

One Photograph: Analog on Analog

Since my days of working as a disc jockey on the radio in the 1970s and 80s, I have always had a turntable of one sort or another in my house. I like relaxing after dinner with a nice glass of wine and putting on an old classic rock album or some jazz. There’s something about plucking an LP from its sleeve, placing it on the platter and dropping the needle into the groove that warms my heart — just like using an old film camera does.

My audio equipment has changed many times over the years. I’ve had some decent receivers and amplifiers over the years and some real crap. Good speakers and bad. As life goes, I sold, gave away or threw away gear. My set up right now is a Yamaha amplifier that I am not at all impressed with. I bought it on the cheap five years ago and you really get what you pay for. My speakers are vintage Klipsch Heresy II which the Yamaha huffs and puffs trying to drive. I’ve been seriously thinking lately about buying a vintage Marantz receiver to compliment the Heresys. I remember listening to the old Marantz receivers back in the day…warm, rich and powerful. There are a number of people that recondition these old receivers. Maybe a 2235B…or even a 2270 to make my speakers happy.

I shot this picture using available light back in 2014, listening to albums and sipping wine. The camera was my Nikon F4 and Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF-D. The film was Cinestill 800T. The Pioneer turntable was damaged beyond repair during a move a few years later.

One Photograph: Embarcadero Pedi-Cab Ride

A stroll along San Francisco’s Embarcadero is one of my favorite things to do whenever I visit the City. I’ve walked the almost three miles from touristy Pier 39 to the Giants ballpark on several occasions. Good exercise and lots of photo opportunities.

In September, 2013, the America’s Cup came to San Francisco. I spent a nice afternoon in the City enjoying the festivities. By the late afternoon, all the walking and the crowds got the best of me and for the first time, I grabbed one of the many Pedi-Cabs that run up and down the waterfront.

I snapped this with my Nikon F2S as my driver peddled me back to the parking lot and my car. I was using Kodak Tri-X film that day.